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2012
Dear Lew,
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I have a 2003 Pontiac Sunfire that I bought used in 2006. It has 85,000 miles on it, and has started shaking when I take it on the freeway. It doesn’t do it on normal roads, what can it be?
Laura,
Redford, MIDear Laura,
Vibrations can be difficult to identify. Professional technicians have special tools to help them with diagnosis, but there are a few things you can do even without special tools.
The first thing to check on a car with 85,000 miles is the tires. Walk around the car and look closely at each tire. If the tires are bulging, worn, or otherwise damaged, replace them.
Even If the tires aren’t worn or damaged they may be out of balance. An easy way to tell is to rotate the tires and see if the vibration moves to another area. If the vibration changes, have them balanced.
If the tires are not the cause of the vibration, the next thing to check is front end and suspension components.
Ball joints and tie rod ends are the suspension components that hold the wheel to the rest of the car. If they are loose, they can allow the wheel to shake in a way that can be felt inside the vehicle.
IMPORTANT TIP: Never EVER work on a car without good solid supports. The Jack is for lifting, not supporting, the car.
If you want to test this yourself, jack up one wheel at a time and support the vehicle on a jack stand and try to wiggle the tire up and down and side to side.
The tire should not wiggle much, if any. If you can wiggle the tire then you may have loose suspension components. Have the front end checked out by a certified professional. If you replace tie rod ends or ball joints, you will also need a front-end alignment.
Finally, vibrations can be in the driveline. To test this, go out on the freeway and drive at posted speeds. Find a time and place where you can drive without anyone around you, and carefully put the car in neutral for a few seconds. If the vibration goes away, the problem is in the driveshaft, engine, or other driveline component.
These are the most common places for vibrations, but remember than almost any moving or spinning part that is loose or out of balance can cause vibrations that can be felt inside the vehicle.
As always, remote diagnosis not an exact science and only a trained professional with time on the vehicle can say for sure what is wrong. Our CARite technicians repair all makes and models and with 20 bays we will get you in and out quickly!
Good luck - Lew
January 24, 2012
I have a 2001 Saturn LW wagon that I bought in 2009. It has 115,000 miles on it. I was driving up over a small hill and without warning it started running very rough and I pulled off the road just in time as it stalled. Now it won't start. Pls help!
BobDear Bob,
The three things a gasoline engine needs to run are Air, Fuel, and Spark. For a sudden loss of power and stalled engine, the first thing I would check is Fuel.
There are several ways the engine can run out of fuel. The first and most obvious is the gas tank can be empty.
If it has been a while since you’ve filled the tank, you may find that you have a problem with the gauge. Pour 1 gallon of gas into the tank and try to start the engine. Don’t add more than a gallon, because if the fuel pump (which is located in the tank) is the problem, the extra fuel will make replacing it more difficult.
The next possibility is a restricted fuel filter.
Measure the fuel pressure by attaching a pressure gauge to the Schrader valve on the fuel rail. You should have least 40psi If you do not have fuel pressure, change the fuel filter and measure fuel pressure again. If you still do not have fuel pressure, take a closer look at the fuel pump.
The fuel pump is in the tank, so you will have to remove the exhaust and lower the tank. Check to see if you have power at the connector.
The fuel pump circuit should have 12 volts, so check the fuel pump connector with a 12v test lamp (or better yet a multi-meter) while someone turns the key to the run position. If the lamp lights and then goes out (turning the key on will cause the fuel pump to have voltage for several second), or the meter shows – 12 volts then the circuit is working.
If the circuit has 12 volts then the fuel pump is a likely culprit.
If you had 40 psi or more at the fuel rail then the fuel pump is not the problem and it’s time to start diagnosing the ignition system.
As always, remote diagnosis not an exact science and only a trained professional with time on the vehicle can say for sure what is wrong. Our CARite technicians repair all makes and models and with 20 bays we will get you in and out quickly!
Good luck - Lew
January 18, 2012
I have a 2004 Nissan Maxima that has 163,000 miles on it. Recently it’s started pulling to the right. It seems to pull harder when I step on the brake but it pulls to the right even when I am not touching the brake.
SaraDear Sara,
When you say that it pulls harder when you step on the brakes, it suggests that the problem is in the brake system.
If the brakes are just plain worn out, then you may have metal-to-metal contact between the brake and brake rotor. This is a very dangerous situation and yes you should have it looked at right away.
If the brake on one wheel is worn out, but the others are not, then there may be a deeper issue like a frozen brake caliper. One symptom of a stuck caliper is the inside pad has a lot more wear than the outside pad.
A sticking caliper never properly releases the brake, which causes the engine to have to work harder to go the same speed as the same vehicle with properly working brakes. The end result is added wear on driveline components and poor fuel economy.
The short answer is yes; have it looked at by a qualified professional right away.
As always, remote diagnosis not an exact science and only a trained professional with time on the vehicle can say for sure what is wrong. Our CARite technicians repair all makes and models and with 20 bays we will get you in and out quickly!
Good luck - Lew
January 6, 2012
I have a Ford Focus that has 97,000 miles on it. Recently it’s started making a grinding sound when I make left hand turns. The sound is less pronounced when I drive in a straight line. I’ve recently had my brakes replaced, so I don’t think that’s it. What else can it be?
JoelDear Joel,
If your brakes have been recently repaired, then the first thing I would think of is a wheel bearing.
IMPORTANT TIP: Never EVER work on a car without good solid supports. The Jack is for lifting, not supporting, the car.
A good way to diagnose wheel bearings is to jack up, and support with jack stands, one wheel at time. Once the wheel is off the ground, spin the tire and listen for a faint grinding sound. The noise will be faint since there is no load on the bearing. If the wheel is grinding, the wheel bearing is a likely culprit. Remember that more than one bearing can be bad, so check each wheel carefully.
Many professionals prefer to diagnose wheel bearings while driving the vehicle. To do this, drive down a surface street at posted speeds with the window open. As you drive, listen for a grinding or whistling sound.
If you hear a grinding sound that gets louder while cornering, a bad wheel bearing that is supporting the cornering load (left bearing on a left hand turn) will get louder. If the noise gets quiet or goes away, the other side is the likely culprit. Make a right hand turn to verify that the wheel bearing noise gets louder.
Try the same thing on acceleration and braking. If the noise is quieter during braking, when the load is shifted to the front of the vehicle, then a rear wheel bearing is the likely cause of the noise.
As always, remote diagnosis not an exact science and only a trained professional with time on the vehicle can say for sure what is wrong. Our CARite technicians repair all makes and models and with 20 bays we will get you in and out quickly!
Good luck - Lew
January 6, 2012
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